Wednesday, 22 September 2010

The Swedish School of Textiles

Over to Vauxhall Fashion Scout, we went along to see The Swedish School of Textiles. With some youthful, conceptual minds driving the design, each collection was well thought out and sustained attention throughout the show.

David Soderlund's 'Hommage' worked together multiple textures and staple garments into one look, my favourite piece was the half floral-trench silhouette with cable knit sleeves and trims.

Elin Klevmar's 'Efterklang' fresh-laundered look left me feeling clean and casual, wanting a nice soak in the tub then wrapping up in jerseys and silks. Her draped garments appeared loose fitting and the ultimate loungewear. I long for some for my living room.

Elin Sundling's 'I paint myself into a corner' collection had paint-stained sheers and prints but most favoured by Knithead-nation were the backward hood-like hats. Sheer enough to see through, these delicate balaclava's were a nice finish to a subtle collection.

Ellinor Nilsen sent a group of 'Nobodies' down the catwalk for her time slot. Animated masks for faces made her models anonymous, allowing the eye to wonder over the entire body with both delight and confusion. Nice knitted elements in this one, with an enlarged caramel cardi layered over a gray mohair jumper in one look. Nilson's use of textures appeared to be cleverly crafted into paper creases to match paper mache faces.

An array of clever pleating and drapery in Emelie Johansson's 'Structure is everything' collection. With themes of displaced draping throughout, there is great play with textures as she layers rippling sheers over already costructed garments, and mixing warm and cool colours throughout the series leaves the admirer in almost majestic confusion. Matching the garments, Johansson tops her models with headpieces that seem, from my imagination, like structures that were once rigid but now in a collapsed state. On a head. Most enjoyed.

Jennie Siljedahl showed off oversized knits in collection 'Control me as I control you' which also toyed with a palette of rust shades and metallics. I am a lover for rusty colours and this print-on-knit rich toffee hoodie made me melt! One of my favourite pieces bookmarked here.

But most adored goes to Johanna Milvert's collection 'View' showcasing garments that play with proportion and distortion, stretching sleeves and twisting seamlines across the body. It was if Milvert had given each model a chinese burn, with God-sized hands, before sending them on their way. The trouser she had created were the most ingenious. Being in design I find trousers are the most difficult, so after seeing the twisted crotches and diagonal seaming I was in instant awe. A new kind of tailoring was developed here, perfectly imperfect. And partnered with elaborate oversized knits? Even better.

No comments:

Post a Comment